BEAUREGARD-KEYES HOUSE. This stately 19th-century mansion with period furnishings was the temporary home of Confederate General P. G. T. Beauregard. The house and grounds had severely deteriorated in the 1940s, when the well-known novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes moved in and helped restore it. Her studio at the back of the large courtyard remains intact. Keyes wrote 40 novels in this studio, all in longhand, among them the local favorite, Dinner at Antoine's. Be sure to take a peek through the gates at the beautiful walled garden at the corner of Chartres and Ursulines streets. Landscaped in the same sun pattern as Jackson Square, the garden is in bloom throughout the year. 1113 Chartres St., PHONE: 504/523-7257. COST: $4. Mon.-Sat. 10-3, tours on the hr.

BOURBON STREET. Tacky and touristy as it may be, this famous street takes you past some of the typical bars, restaurants, music clubs, and novelty shops that have given this strip its reputation as the playground of the South. The noise, raucous crowds, and bawdy sights are not family fare; if you go with children, do so before sundown. Although the street is usually well patrolled, it is wise to stay alert to your surroundings. The street is blocked to make a pedestrian mall at night; often the area is shoulder-to-shoulder, especially during major sports events and Mardi Gras.

BREAKFAST AT CAFÉ DU MONDE. No trip to New Orleans would be complete without a cup of chicory-laced café au lait and a few sugar-dusted beignets at this venerable Creole institution with views of Jackson Square and Decatur Street. French Market, Decatur and St. Ann Sts., PHONE: 504/525-4544. No credit cards.

THE CABILDO. Dating from 1799, this Spanish colonial-style building is named for the Spanish council -- or cabildo -- that met here. The transfer of Louisiana to the United States was made in 1803 in the front room on the second floor overlooking the square. The Cabildo later served as the city hall and then the supreme court. There are three floors of multicultural exhibits recounting Louisiana history -- from the colonial period through Reconstruction -- with countless artifacts, including the death mask of Napoléon Bonaparte. The Cabildo is almost a twin to the Presbytère on the other side of the cathedral. Jackson Sq., PHONE: 504/568-6968. COST: $5; 20% discount combination ticket. Tues.-Sun. 9-5.

CANAL STREET FERRY RIDE. The most romantic view of the city and its skyline can be seen from the deck of the ferry that crosses the Mississippi River to Algiers Point from the Canal Street terminal. Foot of Canal. COST: $1 round-trip car, free pedestrians. Daily 5:45 AM-midnight; ferries leave the East Bank on the hour and half hour, and the West Bank on the quarter hour and three quarters hour.

CAROUSEL GARDENS. This amusement park in the southwestern corner of City Park has a New Orleans treasure as its centerpiece -- a carousel that dates from 1906 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Adults and children alike love riding this antique, replete with authentic wooden flying horses, giraffes, zebras, and other exotic creatures. Surrounding it are a roller coaster, tilt-a-whirl, Ferris wheel, and bumper cars. A miniature train takes adults and children throughout the area on its own track, and there is a wading pool with bronze statuary. Victory Ave., City Park, PHONE: (504) 482-4888 . Park hrs vary by season; closed in winter except for last 3 wks of Dec. and the 1st wk of Jan., and when the park is rented out for parties; carousel weekends 11-5:30 when the park is open.

CITY PARK. A sugar plantation during the late 1700s, City Park is a great place to picnic, walk or run, fish, feed the ducks, or just relax. Within City Park's boundaries are the Timken Center, New Orleans Botanical Garden, The New Orleans Historic Train Garden, Storyland, Carousel Gardens, New Orleans Museum of Art, tennis courts, and a golf course. The artificial lagoons meandering through the park are home to wild geese, ducks, and swans, and native flora and fauna thrive among the ancient moss-draped oaks. Art Deco benches, fountains, bridges, and ironwork in the park are a remnant of the 1930s refurbishment by the Works Progress Administration. Around Christmas every year, the main area of the park dons thousands of Christmas lights and decorations for the annual Celebration in the Oaks. Bordered by City Park Ave., Robert E. Lee Blvd., Marconi Dr., and Bayou St. John,

FAUBOURG MARIGNY. Faubourg means suburb, and this one was developed in the early 1800s by Bernard Marigny, a wealthy planter. Faubourg Marigny lies across Esplanade Avenue from the French Quarter. Coffeehouses, bookstores, restaurants, and music clubs line Frenchmen Street. All the streets are narrow and intersect at odd angles; look for street names in inlaid tiles at crosswalks. This neighborhood, and Frenchmen Street in particular, is where some of the city's best musicians play. Music venues of note include Checkpoint Charlie's, the Dragon's Den, Café Brasil, and Snug Harbor.

FRENCH MARKET. The sounds, colors, and smells here are alluring: street performers, ships' horns on the river, pralines, muffulettas (sandwiches with ham, salami, mozzarella, and green olives), sugarcane, and Creole tomatoes. Originally a Native American trading post, later a bustling open-air market under the French and Spanish, the French Market now contains shops, offices, and eating places in its gracefully arched, renovated buildings. Although the Farmer's Market section of the French Market blends in well with the ensemble, the two open-air sheds that comprise it and the Community Flea Market were built more recently, in 1936, as part of a Works Progress Administration project. Latrobe Park, a small recreational area within the French Market, honors Benjamin Latrobe, designer of the city's first waterworks. Decatur and North Peters Sts.

French Quarter. Unlike historic downtown areas of many other American cities, the French Quarter is largely a residential district, sharing streets with shops, restaurants, and offices. It is alive with the sights, sounds, and odors of a major port city and entertainment hub. Yet, behind the wrought-iron gates of its buildings are tranquil, intimate courtyards hidden from view. This intertwining of the public and private in the Quarter gives it a charm rarely matched in other U.S. cities. Notice that, with the exception of Bourbon Street, there are very few neon signs or garish flashing lights, and that buildings throughout the Quarter conform to the architectural style of the late 1700s to mid-1800s.

GALLIER HOUSE. Famous New Orleans architect James Gallier designed this as his family home in 1857. Today it contains an excellent collection of early Victorian furnishings. The tour includes the house, servants' quarters, grounds, and a gift shop. Take a moment to look through the carriageway; it is the only one in the city with a carriage parked in it. 1132 Royal St., PHONE: 504/525-5661. COST: $6; $10 combination ticket with the Hermann-Grima House. Tours weekdays 10-3:30.

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE. One of the largest and best-preserved examples of American architecture in the Quarter, this Georgian-style house has the only restored private stable and the only working 1830s Creole kitchen in the Quarter. American architect William Brand built the house in 1831. Cooking demonstrations on the open hearth are held here all day Thursday from October through May. You'll want to check the gift shop, which has many local crafts and books. 820 St. Louis St., PHONE: 504/525-5661. COST: $6; $10 combination ticket with the Gallier House. Tours weekdays 10-3:30.

JACKSON SQUARE. Surrounded by historic buildings, the heart of the French Quarter is today a beautifully landscaped park. Jackson Square was founded in 1718, but until the 1850s, the square was called the Place d'Armes and was a military marching ground. It was also the site of public executions carried out in various styles, including burning at the stake, beheading, breaking on the wheel, and hanging. A statue of Andrew Jackson, victorious leader of the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812, commands the center of the square. The words carved in the base on the cathedral side of the statue -- "The Union must and shall be preserved" -- are a lasting reminder of the federal troops who occupied New Orleans during the Civil War and who inscribed them. The park is landscaped in a sun pattern, with walkways set like rays streaming out from the center, a popular garden design in the royal court of King Louis XIV, the Sun King. Daily 8-6, excluding special events.

JAZZ FEST. As if the music festival New Orleans offers nightly weren't enough, once a year, in late April and early May, the city pulls out all the stops, drawing the likes of the Neville Brothers, Aretha Franklin, or Bob Dylan, not to mention countless local artists. Thousands of performers -- and hundreds of thousands of fans -- converge on the Fair Grounds Race Track and other venues around town for this annual celebration of music: traditional and contemporary jazz, blues, gospel, rock, Cajun, zydeco, African, Caribbean, folk, pop, and country. Big names are everywhere at "Jazz Fest," but an even greater treat is hearing a talented headliner-to-be, or just enjoying a small-town band. Jazz Fest's line-up is announced in February; a brochure goes out in March. But don't wait that long to make room reservations: many people make their plans a full year in advance. To get on the mailing list, contact the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (1205 Rampart St., 70116, PHONE: 504/522-4786), or visit the festival's official Web site: www.nojazzfest.com.

MARDI GRAS. At no time is New Orleans exactly a button-down town, but every year in February or March it outdoes itself, throwing America's greatest street party, Mardi Gras. There are balls and general merriment for days, and private clubs called krewes stage fantastic parades through the Central Business District. Elaborately costumed participants ride on glittering floats and toss trinkets to the crowds; the biggest krewes include Endymion, Bacchus, Orpheus, Zulu, and Rex. And black neighborhood groups known as Mardi Gras Indians, including Creole Wild West, roam the city in feathered finery. The climax comes on Fat Tuesday, when the parades kick off a night of abandon that can make Animal House seem like high tea. The next day is Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent, a time of abstinence and reflection. And when penance has been paid and the pounding headache eases up a bit, the French Quarter beckons anew.

MID-CITY BOWLING LANES. At this combination bowling alley/music club near Uptown, joyful dancers edge into the lanes when a favorite zydeco band takes the stage. 4133 S. Carrollton Ave., PHONE: 504/482-3133. AE. Daily noon-1 AM.

NAPOLEON HOUSE BAR AND CAFE (500 Chartres St., PHONE: 504/524-9752) is a favorite gathering place for local characters. The bar is renowned for drinks such as the Pimm's Cup and the Sazerac. Snack on a muffuletta sandwich or a cheese plate, and enjoy the atmosphere. Napoléon never made it to Louisiana, but he would have felt right at home here in the building intended for him in exile.

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART (NOMA). Gracing the main entrance to City Park is this well-regarded art museum. The jeweled treasures, particularly some of the famous eggs by Peter Carl Fabergé, are a favorite exhibit, along with European and American painting, sculpture, drawings, prints, and photography. The museum holds one of the largest glass collections in the country and a large collection of Latin American colonial art. The comprehensive Asian art wing includes a good selection of Japanese painting of the Edo period; African, Oceanic, Pre-Columbian, and Native American art are also represented. The Courtyard Café in the museum looks out on a lovely sculpture garden. 1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park, PHONE: 504/488-2631. COST: $6, free Thurs. 10-noon for Louisiana residents. Tues.-Sun. 10-5.

NEW ORLEANS STREETCAR. The most fun way to explore the Central Business District, the Garden District, and Uptown is to take a morning or afternoon ride on one of the historic city streetcars that run along the riverfront and St. Charles Avenue. Admission: $1 one-way (exact change). Daily 24 hrs, about every 10 min 7 AM-8 PM, every ½ hr 8 PM-midnight, every hr midnight-7 AM.

OLD MINT. Today the Old Mint is used mainly for rotating exhibitions on southern history and as the home of the New Orleans Jazz Collection, which includes Louis Armstrong's first trumpet. Sheet music, artifacts, and photos of jazz players trace the history of the American music form. The Louisiana Historical Center, which holds the French and Spanish Louisiana archives, is open free to researchers by appointment. The building dates from 1835 and is where the Confederacy minted its money during the Civil War; later, Confederate soldiers were imprisoned in the thick-walled mint while Union troops occupied New Orleans. After the war, legal tender again was printed here until 1909. Esplanade Ave. and Decatur St., PHONE: 504/568-6968. COST: $5; 20% discount combination ticket. Tues.-Sun. 9-5.

PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ. Banjo player Danny Barker immortalized this restaurant in his song "Palm Court Strut." The best of traditional New Orleans jazz is presented in a classy setting, with tile floors, exposed brick walls, and a handsome mahogany bar. As opposed to Preservation Hall, there are decent creature comforts; regional cuisine is served, and you can sit at the bar and rub elbows with local musicians. A wide selection of records, tapes, and CDs are on sale. 1204 Decatur St., PHONE: 504/525-0200. AE, D, MC, V. Wed.-Sun. 7 PM-11 PM.

THE PRESBYTÈRE. One of twin Spanish colonial-style buildings flanking St. Louis Cathedral, this one, on the right, now holds outstanding exhibits about Mardi Gras. It was originally designed to house the priests of the cathedral; instead, it served as a courthouse under the Spanish and later under the Americans. The Mardi Gras exhibits fill the first two floors with hundreds of pieces of Carnival memorabilia, including elaborate costumes and jewelry. Interactive displays and videos illustrate the history of Mardi Gras in New Orleans and other parts of the state. Jackson Sq., PHONE: 504/568-6968. COST: $5; 20% discount combination ticket. Tues.-Sun. 9-5.

PRESERVATION HALL. Although it's grungy and uncomfortable with crude wooden benches and a cramped standing room, this cultural French Quarter landmark showcases some of the best traditional jazz musicians in the world. 726 St. Peter St., PHONE: 504/522-2841. COST: $5. No credit cards. Nightly 8-midnight.

ROBINSON HOUSE. Styled after an Italian villa, this home built in the late 1850s is one of the largest and most elegant in the district. Doric and Corinthian columns support the rounded galleries. It is believed to be the first house in New Orleans with "waterworks," as indoor plumbing was called then. 1415 3rd St.

Sunset at Lake Pontchartrain. This is the perfect time to visit the enormous lake, which has miles of seawall where you can relax and stroll along the cool waterfront.

WEDDING CAKE HOUSE. A portico and decorative balconies help this house outshine most other mansions on the avenue. Its key beauty is the beveled lead glass on its front door, one of the most beautiful entryways in the city. 5809 St. Charles Ave.

WOLDENBERG RIVERFRONT PARK. This stretch of green from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue has a breathtaking view of the Mississippi River as it curves around New Orleans, giving the city the name the Crescent City. The wooden promenade section in front of the French Quarter is called Moon Walk, named for Mayor Moon Landrieu, under whose administration in the 1970s the riverfront beyond the flood wall was first opened to public view. Woldenberg Park is named for its benefactor, local businessman Malcolm Woldenberg, whose statue is in the park. Ocean Song, a large kinetic sculpture near the statue of Woldenberg, was created by local artist John T. Scott. Weekdays 6 AM-10 PM, weekends 6 AM-midnight.